Friday, May 25, 2012

Dia Ventisei Leaving Terracina and Coming Close to Rome


Can you find the little chameleon in this picture?
He is there, honest!

It was difficult to leave Terracina to move closer to Rome. Terracina is such a calm and beautiful place when you are near the beaches. It has all the attitude and posing and “Italianness” when you are on the main street, or in the square, but there is also a quiet pride that you can more feel than see. It is special.

We find the exit to take us on what we believe will be the coast road. There is just one “yellow” road shown on the map, but we have become less trusting of maps than we are at home. There are lots of times that we must “dead reckon” as they say in navigation…keep the sea on your left and ignore the signs that do their best to get us on a main thoroughfare to Rome. My job as navigator is to keep us out of Rome. I think I can manage it!

We are marveling at the camping sites and swimming places and overall lovely opportunities to stay here in the summer for a marvelous time. We wish we could bring Mo since there are great spots to set up for a while.

We are blown away by the miles of sand beaches that stay on our left shoulders, as we move north. We had no idea there was such a vacation-ready coast here. It is a great drive because at this time of the year there is no traffic. It is kind of odd that there is a whole lane of parking, signified by blue paint that wants anyone who parks and goes to the beach to walk to the nearest ticket dispenser and register. I can’t imagine that people who think that red lights are optional are likely to walk to get a parking permit. Perhaps once or twice a year there is an enforcement assault that will scare some people into paying for a longer period of time than most locals.   

The map shrinks as we get closer to Rome. The roads that want to send us there are numerous, and my job becomes more serious, because now that we have been to Rome we really know that we don’t want to be driving there. I do well and we arrive at Osteria, just across a canal from the town of Fumicino where Leonardo da Vinci airport is located. Since we didn’t really want to come this close to the airport for our second last night, we need to refocus.

I’ve got to say that even with a TIM card in the iPad, it was impossible to get a decent connection and explore Expedia for possibilities. We did what we did in the olden days…we drove and drove and there in front of us was the Hotel Tiber, four stars and fronting on both the canal and the ocean. It was more than we needed and all that we wanted, so Dennis checked us in.

The hotel is one of those boutique places…Pierre Cardin and others have signed a pillar in the lobby. The furniture looks like it is from a film set, but is cool and tasteful. So we go to our room with our “smart chipped key” and when we open the door, we have to insert the key in a second inside lock to “open” the lights. Very energy efficient; very annoying when Dennis had to go back to the lobby to ask for a second internet sign on for us, and took the room key with him. If he takes the room key, the lights go out. Glad they are saving the planet, but really?

This area is called the Port of Rome; while no cruise ship docks are visible here there is a very healthy looking fishing community and yacht basin. The fish boats are tied to the sides of the canal and there are random piles of nets that I take lots of pictures of because I find the colours and textures of the piles fascinating.

We walk the canal scanning for places for supper. Of course there is a place that attracts Dennis, a “porchettaria” which means that he could have a sandwich carved off a roast suckling pig! Not wanting all the fat that they love to leave with the pork, I order a green salad. Well, the female chef understood, but asked several questions – could I have some mixed vegetables? Did I want olives? She then delivered the most exquisite salad with marinated artichoke hearts, a variety of mushrooms, marinated sun dried tomatoes, fresh tomatoes, scads of various greens and several olives. I left a very happy camper.

As we were eating we watched a little pedestrian lift bridge be raised, so we walked to the middle of it, just in time to watch the car bridge be raised to allow two sailboats to move further up the canal.

Then magically it is near sunset and we walk to the end of the pier to see the final act. Beware, there are lots of pictures of this too. Good collage material J.

Returning to the room we explore some of the lovely outdoor places our hotel has created with fountains and flowers. While very chic, the spaces are also comfortable. Nice.

This day too close to the airport has turned out well. We are grateful, happy and having a drink of wine.

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