Jour Deux aussi –Tuileries and Yum!

Tackling the Metro for the first time we are headed downtown into the thick of things. Huge and efficient, this public transportation is also very old in spots and with other sparkling upgrades. The stop at Place de la Concorde where we decide to disembark is recently redone with arching walls and a ceiling covered in shiny, white, two by two inch tiles each of which is embellished by a dark blue capital letter. There are no spaces between the letters and at first it appears that it is gibberish. After awhile words begin to appear and it is clear that it is a document. I haven’t been able to find out which one yet, but this is a little mystery to pursue.

We ascend into what is the biggest place in Paris and that is some feat because there is BIG everything here. There are dozens of massive statues that surround a giant oval within a giant octagon of cobblestones. At the centre is the Obelisk of Luxor that was a gift from Egypt and used to stand outside the tomb of Amon. The hieroglyphs and the top point of the obelisk have been re-gilded recently and project the intended opulence.

The Place de la Concorde has a storied history and at one point it was the Place de la Revolution. Where the obelisk is, there once stood a guillotine and these same cobblestones have been bathed in blood. The layers of history here are so different than I have ever felt at home. It is easy here to sense the different layers of time and activity, with the same cast of good guys and bad guys as ever.

So we have a choice, right turn and we head down the Champs Elysees or left into the Tuileries Gardens and we choose left. The central walkway, made of finely crushed rock and light sand, has to be 100 feet wide and goodness knows how long, because the Louvre at the end of it appears rather tiny; Definitely gardens fit for a palace, which is what they are. The fountains are wide and low and have people sitting all around the edge of them, cooling their feet or picnicking. Each side has gardens, or square forest of trees surrounding an amazing statue. There are children having an adventure in thoroughly modern playgrounds, and adults relaxing, reading, visiting, or painting among the trees. The place calls out for slow walking and deep breaths.

Dennis and I stop and read the menus at two restaurants, symmetrically placed across the central walkway from each other. Yes, we will eat here. Sitting café style we watch Paris life stroll by as we enjoy our second meal of the day…here’s where the “yum” comes in.

Earlier, in Montmartre, Dennis had tried his first Croque Monsieur; basically: bread covered with ham covered with bread and then cheese that is broiled. I had the house-made Quiche Lorraine and salad. We both remarked on the unique tastes, wonderful lean and flavourful ham, different cheeses. Every bite had its own personality on the palate… not to sound like a pretentious foodie, but I’ve never tasted quiche like this in my life!

So with this as our first meal of the day, would the Tuileries fare measure up? I tried my first escargot and Dennis had a plate of tapas that had small bites from five or six different ethnicities. We leave happy and sated, and continue our stroll.

We reach the front of the Louvre after oooing and ahhing at the sculptures, carnival, fountains and flower gardens. This is clearly a place that locals enjoy as well as visitors.

The glass pyramid entrance pavilion is impressive in person partly because it is huge! As we gaze at it and the people cooling their feet in the shallow reflecting pools adjacent to it, I realize I need to pee. So off we go in pursuit of a toilette. We go into the entrance area of the Louvre – no toilets. We talk to a fellow who directs us to the shops in a subterranean mall that looks very nice, but the need to go is getting urgent. We go to the food court. There are always bathrooms near the food court – um, no! I don’t even want to think about what that means. Ah, finally signs for the bathrooms. We take the turn as directed and there is nothing but a big roll-down gate that is locked solid. We go to the closest restaurant and I ask a woman working there where there are washrooms and her boss comes out to see why I am disturbing her as she cleans up. “Pardon, ou et les toilettes?” He waves hand gestures as he says in English, “Closed. Closed at 8 pm!” with an attitude that suggests everyone knows that. Holy cow…they lock up the bathrooms here! Back on the street we gaze around and see a McDonalds. Say what you like about cultural imperialism, but these interlopers come bearing bathrooms. Aaaaah.

So, it is our second day in Paris and it is nearing a close. We know that the Louvre is adjacent to the Seine and we have never seen it, so we walk back across the massive entrance area and cross the street to take our first look at the river and the Isle de la Cite from near the Pont du Carrousel. Glimpses of Notre Dame’s spires thrill us; a dozen or more large barge-type boats cruise away for sunset on the Seine experiences; the Pont des Arts is covered with people so we walk the short distance along the paved embankment to join them. It is Saturday night and all over the wide pedestrian bridge people have gathered to picnic with friends and families. Musicians play, stereos softly compete, there is chattering and laughing, it is lively and convivial and there is a real sense that these people own this city. The outside is merely an extension of their home and they enjoy it as a living room.