Day 15 – No Catacombs, the Marais and in search of a Deli

We decided yesterday that we would try for the catacombs again so this morning we walk to them. We stop and buy fresh sandwiches at a patisserie and picnic at a bus bench for brunch. My cheese sandwich is made of brie – full fat, I assume – and is just delicious. Dennis enjoys his ham pita. When we arrive at the catacombs the line is even longer than before. I wonder, can we reserve?

The metro takes us to the big department stores downtown near the Opera. They are huge, sometimes many buildings and by law they can only have sales twice a year. The summer sales are on now and prices are less exorbitant than usual for some things and still wildly crazy for any name that is recognizable. I spend half an hour and can’t take the crowds. I have bought nothing, but discovered a huge stained glass dome and amazing balconies that rise seven floors in one area of Galleries Lafayette! These Grandes Magasins (Galleries LaFayette, Printemps, The Bon Marche) have been here for more than 100 years and are quite amazing. One whole floor of this huge store is dedicated to women’s shoes. There is a six-storey store across the street that is all things for men.

We decide to walk around the Marais, an area we have spent little time in, so grab the Metro. One thing I don’t think I have mentioned is that there is often live music in the Metro stations, or in the cars themselves by musicians busking. In one station, there is usually a ten-piece mini orchestra that is professional quality, selling their CDs. We sometimes see people with accordions playing lilting French melodies, which in my opinion is a much nicer use of the instrument than polkas, but that’s just me! (Mon dieu! The woman I love is prejudiced!!! –DD)

As we walk we run into Place des Voges which it one of the oldest palaces in Paris. It is built around an open square that is now a park, and it is the first execution of what are now thought of as town houses. It’s 400 years old, Louis XIII was married here and Victor Hugo lived here for a period. It is now expensive condos, museums and art galleries.

Dennis has read that the Marais is an area where many Jewish people have settled over the years and figures that this means he can find a good deli, so we go in search of corned beef sandwiches in the town of Croque Monsieurs (French grilled-cheese sandwiches that are ubiquitous).

It takes us about an hour and a half walking up and down streets in the Marais – with me occasionally popping into stores – until sure enough we hit the right street and have out-of-this-world sandwiches. It may be kosher, but it’s still Paris and the meat is perfect, the onion buns soft and fresh and the condiments interesting.

With no energy for exploring left and no agenda, we decide to head home early and just veg in our apartment. On the way to the Metro we pass a huge concert at City Hall that is part of the summer’s free entertainment. The band is good, sort of French country rock with a little African percussion thrown in. We have no idea what they were called, but it’s a fun way to end the evening downtown.